5/27/2023 0 Comments Macpilot vs cocktail![]() He’s since moved to Bali, where he’s opened new incarnation of Room4Dessert in the village of Ubud. Simultaneously, Will Goldfarb was playing with similar ideas, applying molecular techniques to both cocktails and desserts at his SoHo bar, Room4Dessert. In 2007, the duo went on to open the now-shuttered Tailor, where Freeman credited Mason for his own innovative creations, which ranged from absinthe gummy bears to smoked Coke to dry-hopped gin. Freeman followed suit behind the bar, with drinks that routinely borrowed from Mason’s modernist bag of tricks. Following Dufresne’s out-of-the-box lead, Mason churned out unexpected flavors like candied olives and beet caramel. ![]() In 2003, when Wylie Dufresne hired Sam Mason and Eben Freeman to join the opening team at wd-50, the two quickly set off on what would become among the most compelling pastry chef and bartender collaborations of the past decade. While linked throughout history-canelé de Bordeaux have been made with rum for more than three centuries-drinks and desserts have both reached a turning point, a post avant-garde paring-down that is still shaking out. “Pastry chefs are already hard-wired to think in this way,” says Michael Laiskonis, creative director for the Institute for Culinary Education and former pastry chef at Le Bernardin. The fact that Modernist Cuisine, the six-volume food science encyclopedia published in 2011, avoids pastry almost altogether is telling. Pastry chefs have long used the sort of scientific techniques that only began to trickle into bars about a decade ago. A bartender from Grant Achatz’s The Aviary recently staged with Cree as well, taking back inspiration for a Blood and Sand variation. He added dried coconut to the infusion, resulting in precisely the flavor he wanted. “They’re really aromatic, and you can kind of burn them to your liking,” Davidson discovered. When he finally sought out Blackbird pastry chef Dana Cree, whose experience includes a stage at Noma and stint at Alinea, she suggested gently toasting coconut husks for a rum infusion. He tried grilling the limes, and using a hand-smoker on shredded coconut, but nothing quite worked. ![]() Kyle Davidson, head bartender at Blackbird in Chicago, wanted to add smokiness to a coconut- and lime-flavored cocktail.
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